24/8/25: Replace plugs to get started. Fit hip pads adjacent to front seats.

25/8/25: Adjust voltage regulator for 7.2V at battery. Was 6.6V. Headlights very dim unless charging. About 1.56V measured. Indicators did not work unless engine running.
               Replace windscreen to cowl seal.
               Notice front right brake hose leaking.

Good thing I didn't drive it home!

27/8/25: Examine wiring - mistakes noted. Voltage regulator fed into the system via 20A horn circuit breaker. High resistance between battery and ammeter responsible for dim headlights and inoperative indicators.
               Brake light not through ammeter. No circuit breaker for light circuit. Wiring gauge too small for 6V in some instances.
               Rewired ammeter.

28/8/25: Reconnected 5A circuit breaker for fuel gauge, and 20A circuit breaker for horn. Better access to C.B.'s if speedo removed. Need to check regulator adjustment again in view of incorrect wiring found.

30/8/25: Made bracket to attach 30A C.B. to light switch.
               Terminal broke off brake switch - previous repair with solder.
               Started on indicators - fitted 6V lamp into switch. There was an unconnected 12V bulb there.

Original circuit breaker is no longer available, so adapted modern generic type.

1/9/25: Brake / park light filaments on RHS found to be reversed.
             Indicator bulbs on rear too low wattage (3W) for flasher to work correctly. No output from pilot light (P) terminal on flasher because of this. Replaced with 21W.
             Brake lights need rewiring.
             Bodgie trailer socket connection in wiring noted.
             Reinstalled indicator switch.

2/9/25: Made new wiring harness for rear lights.
             Found number plate light bulbs to be 12V. No wonder they were dim.
             Short circuit found in LHS brake light socket.

Decided a rewire was in order when I saw this.

3/9/25: Finished rear light wiring and ran new wire to LHS indicators.
             Made buzzer circuit for indicators.
             Reconnect horn - crimp connector came off wire.

Mixture of old and new wiring.

6/9/25: Replace brake switch and install new connectors for it - strange type of bullet connector?
             Fix choke cable - crushed under carburettor clamp.
             Replace battery clamp bolts.
             High and low beam headlight connections need to be reversed. High beam indicator is on with low beam.
             Installed 10A blade fuse for indicators.

8/9/25: Reverse headlight beams.
             Degrease starter Bendix - engagement not always as it should be. This needs further examination. There is a possibility the Bendix has the wrong number of teeth.
             Readjust voltage regulator to 7.2V now that it's connected correctly.
             Check steering box mount to see if angle of column can be raised. It's already at its limit.
             Install surround ring for dip switch.
             Install new air hose and clips.
             Handbrake cable observed to be sticking.

Starter motor out to examine Bendix.

9/9/25: First order of parts from Milspares.
             Dismantled front brake hoses. RHS blocked as well as leaking. LHS hose same as Hilux.
             11" hose in box of parts too short for RHS. S shaped solid brake line also too short for RHS.

11/9/25: Get new brake hoses made by Pirtek.
               Milspares parts arrived.
               Attempt to connect brake hoses. Need thinner retaining clips. Used new S shaped brake line on LHS.
              LHS front wheel bearing needs replacing.
              Ordered clips for brake hoses from eBay.

12/9/25: Replace steering wheel with 15" version. Splines tight.
               Replace handbrake cable. Not sure about clips on end.
               Remove RHS freewheeling hub in preparation for hub/drum removal. This was necessary to access the wheel cylinder which was likely full of sludge, given the condition of the associated brake hose. (All wheel cylinders had been replaced by previous owner).

Removing orignal steering wheel. This is the 17" Sheller type.

New 15" steering wheel in Willys style. Much more comfortable for tall people.

13/9/25: Remove RHS front hub to access wheel cylinder.
               Remove hex freewheeling hub screws, then nut on axle.
               Remove six 9/16" bolts on FW hub - really need thin wall socket.
               Remove big nut after bending washer.
               Remove next nut and pull off hub.
               Remove brake shoe cams then shoes.
               Remove wheel cylinder - some sludge inside and starting to pit.
               Clean up and reassemble.
               Note sure about axle end play - it's 3mm.

Cover off freewheeling hub.

Access to wheel cylinder.

Front LHS brake hose replaced.

Front RHS brake hose replaced.

15/9/25: Removed rear brake lines.
               Attempted to install new brake lines but different bracket for T junction on diff has been fitted in different location.
               Ordered correct bracket and two hub washers for future front wheel work.

18/9/25: Installed new T piece bracket. Installed brake lines after much bending.
               Installed hose retaining clips.
               Replace generator earth screw - it was a random self tapper and should be a proper screw.

New rear brake lines.

20/9/25: Bleed brakes. Front LHS hose, rear T piece, rear flex hose all leaking and needed more tightening. Note that new bracket for T junction inhibits access for flare nut spanner. Will need to cut away part if this becomes a problem.
               Not keen on access to fill master cylinder. Used syringe and short tube.
               Reinstalled battery. Horn sounded. Short circuit somewhere.
               Test fit all three vehicles in garage. They all fit!

22/9/25: Replace horn wire in steering column. Switch erratic but improved it. Horn relay via ignition might be good.
               Adjust handbrake - seems to work OK.
               Examined shock bushings. Seems to be generic type same as Hilux.

23/9/25: Get shock bushings from Repco. Install on front shocks - definitely same as Hilux.
                Discover rear shock bushings are different and unable to find replacements. Australian made Monroe shocks had been fitted a long time ago.

24/9/25: Order new rear shocks - the bushings for the official ones are readily available (and come with the new ones).
                Replace steering box gasket.
                Replace transfer case mount.

25/9/25: Refill steering box - used syringe.
               Tried to adjust play out of steering box, but binding beyond centre. Had to back off, but has play. Suggestive of the worm gear or steering sector shaft pins being worn. Will have to examine.
               Replaced rear shocks. Compressing the bushings to get the split pins in was very difficult and had to use all sorts of bodgie methods.

27/9/25: Disconnected rear RHS leaf spring from chassis bracket. Attempted to weld the bracket. Total disaster. This bracket being bolted only, and not welded, was one of the things it failed on with the previous owner's registration attempt.

The spring mount before my welding attempt. It is supposed to be welded as well as bolted. I found the limit of my skills with this one!

29/9/25: 2nd attempt at welding - this time with DC welder. Yes, the arc was easier to strike and maintain, but the result was still a total disaster. Ground off the embarrassment before anyone might see it.
               This is my first stumbling block and not sure what to do.

30/9/25. Got spring back in since I had given up with welding it, and the Jeep needed to be mobile.
And here's a handy hint: Disconnecting and reconnecting the leaf spring is a right pain in the arse. It is not like the book says. Problem is the spring curves inwards when under no load. Needless to say, the eyes no longer line up.
After spending half a day trying to get the spring back in, I took a different approach. By disconnecting the axle from the spring, the spring is only tethered on the other eye on the U shackle at the rear. The spring is free to move forward so the chassis eye lines up.
Then, it's a simple matter of jacking up the spring so that it meets up with the axle mount, and reinstalling the two U-clamps. The Jeep must be supported by stands under the chassis rail, and also another jack under the diff whilst doing this work. Once I did it this way, it was very straightforward and everything went into position.

5/10/25. LHS front wheel bearing replacement. I had previously noted a rumbling sound and feeling of roughness in the LHS front wheel. Such symptoms point to the wheel bearing.
First thing to do is to remove the freewheeling hub.

Rust in freeewheeling hub.

There was a lot of light rust inside. Also, when I removed the front wheel, surface rust was present where it mounts on the hub. I had noted photos from the previous owner showing it stored in a carport. The LH side of the Jeep faced the open side of the carport.

Jeep had been stored exposed to the weather.

Freewheel hub removed and still more rust.

Rusty water had penetrated into the hub.

Bearing rusting and pitting.

No wonder there was a rumbling sound. The bearings were quite pitted on the rollers. It was not difficult to replace them, although it was an all day job. Conveniently, new bearings and seals had been supplied.
Note that for the LHS of the Jeep, the wheel nuts are removed in a clockwise direction.
When replacing the bearings, tighten the first nut to 50 ft. lbs, then back off 1/6 turn (i.e. one flat of the spanner). This is supposed to apply the correct preload. It certainly felt like it did - and it rotated smoothly.
The next nut (after the bendable washer) is also done up to 50 ft. lbs.
There was about the same amount of axle end play on this side as the other.

The freewheeling hub had to be dismantled and rust cleaned out. It was noted the spring clip for retaining the sliding part of the hub had rusted and will probably break apart at some point. It is not super critical.

The Selectro freewheeling hub instructions imply tightening the axle nut to 10-15 ft. lbs. On the RHS this was impossible if the nut castellation was to line up with the split pin hole. In that instance, it had to be done up to around 50 ft. lbs. However, for the LHS, the slot lined up with less than 20 ft. lbs. (the lowest my torque wrench reads).
An interesting thing observed was the brake light came on while doing this work. I can only put it down to pressure on the wheel cylinder while removing the drum actuated the switch (it's a hydraulic switch). Once the drum was back on, stepping on the brake pedal fixed it.
 

Remaining Jobs for Rego:

• Fix steering play.
• Weld spring mount.
• Lubricate chassis, check oil levels, etc.

To be continued....